Experienced cyclists know that anything can happen to the bicycle. For example, metal parts and parts of the vehicle will be rusted with time. In some cases, this can happen if the bike:
– got caught in the pouring rain and wouldn’t have been properly dried afterwards;
– had a bad time wintering in a wet room or on a balcony;
– Was not cleaned properly after washing and left for a long time (washed before winter storage, for example).
However, you should not be upset, in most cases such a disaster can be corrected. There are a number of effective ways And the choice of one depends on a number of factors:
– Objective condition of rusted parts (rust penetration rate);
– Availability of one or the other cleaning agent “here and now” – i.e. at hand, if needed urgently;
– the amount of free time.
However, for true bicycle lovers the last two points are without a question of principle…



Those who believe that a bicycle frame will rust first in a harsh environment are very much mistaken. It is likely to never suffer, as it is covered with special paint spraying with a high degree of protection against such troubles. But the steering wheel, rims, front fork, metal parts of pedals, bolts, arches under the saddle, etc. – that’s right, there’s a lot of corrosion to go around.
In any case, it is important to clearly identify which parts have actually been damaged in order to begin damage control. Evaluate the degree of rust penetration and select a method to control corrosion damage. And after the cleaning measures are finished, make sure that absolutely all the parts that required cleaning are in perfect condition.


remove rust from the bike

There are a number of tools and techniques that can help to remove corrosion marks from bicycle parts and assemblies.
Method #1 . “SHOP”
The simplest and most effective method is certainly chemical rust treatment – products sold in specialized stores. At the initial stages of the defeat and deeper they act absolutely flawlessly, at one time removing up to 90% of the plaque.
It will be required for cleaning activities only a shop spray with the product, clean cloths, gloves and a respiratory mask (because all these compositions are very sharp and unpleasant smell, and in general: chemistry – is chemistry). In addition, it will be necessary to choose a place for processing (garage or balcony). You can also clean your bike outdoors from rust, but it is important to do it in dry clear weather.
You will need to put a strong plastic film under your bike and you can get started:
1. Clean the surfaces from possible dirt and dust;
2. Degrease the parts and assemblies to be treated;
3. Dry the surfaces well;
4. Apply a thinner layer of the conversion material by spraying it out of a spray can (if equipped with a sprayer) or using a normal sponge;
5. Wait for the time indicated on the packaging of the product;
6. Remove the composition using a clean cotton cloth or tissue.
If the rust has not been completely removed at the first time, the entire process must be repeated until all traces of corrosion have been removed from the parts and assemblies to be cleaned. If complete cleaning is not possible, some other, more efficient method should be used.
Method #2. Acid
An effective way to combat rust is by using an acid method to remove it. According to the experts, it is exactly acid that can eliminate the deepest corrosive lesions.
Requirements for cleaning activities:
– citric acid (you can take fresh citric acid or lime) for destructive interaction with iron oxide;
– Grinding material (better if it is a finely compacted metal chip from a hardware or auto shop);
– a clean cloth.
The sequence of actions is as follows:
1. First prepare the bicycle parts and assemblies for treatment: remove dirt and dust. Then degrease and dry well.
2. Acid is poured on the grinding material (!) and not on the surfaces to be treated. It is applied in such a way that the citrus juice does not drip and the pressed metal flakes are simply moistened.
Sanding material wetted with lemon or lime juice should be used to mechanically remove rust from the affected areas. It is necessary to clean everything – rims, chain ( from this detail the rests of acid should be removed very carefully – all to the last drop), spokes, etc. They’re especially careful to clean the stars.
4. The bike is turned upside down for further cleaning.
5. Actually, the next step is to rinse. It’s necessary to keep the acid from eating the metal in the future. The residual acid is washed off with water. The clean cloth is properly dampened and carefully treated on all cleaned surfaces.
6. The bike needs to dry after the cleaning process. It should be wiped dry (several times) with a clean cotton cloth.
You can add cooking salt to lemon juice for greater efficiency. It’s better to have a big one for the abrasive effect as well.
Method #3. Battery
There is also another (quite often used) way to get rid of deep (and not so much) rust on bicycle parts. The method is quite interesting and, importantly, really effective.
We will need:
– a small piece of zinc;
– the wire;
– solder acid;
– a dry, clean cloth;
– a piece of cotton wool;
– one self-tapper;
– light bulb (12V);
– protective gloves.
The cleaning work is carried out in steps:
1. Zinc will have to be wrapped with cotton wool first and then wrapped in a clean cloth.
2. Self-cutting screws into zinc, through cotton wool layers and cloth.
3. Then a simple electrical circuit is created – a wire is connected to the self-tapping screw, which is then connected to the battery via a twelve-volt lamp.
4. A piece of zinc is soaked in solder acid (always wear protective gloves);
5. Details and assemblies (previously cleaned from dirt and dust, degreased and dried), which are affected by corrosion, are treated with a zinc tampon. Before the formation of a characteristic grey color.
6. The swab is disconnected from the battery and the cleaned surfaces are washed and dried (very carefully).
The “trick” of this original and extremely effective way is that the treated places will never rust again! And you don’t even have to cover them with some kind of special protective layer.

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